The 1990 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda offers up gorgeous scents of sweet tobacco and spices. Despite approaching its full tertiary stage, the wine remains quite firm in its tannins, showing off a powerful expression of this great Serralunga vineyard. There is superb richness and density to be found in the 1990 Vigna Rionda, one of the fresher wines from this important vintage. The finish is soft, sensual and captivating. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. The Massolino family has made wine since the late 1880s, although little documentation exists from that era. Up until the 1950s the estate farmed a variety of crops, which was the custom at the time, before focusing on wine in a more serious fashion in the 1960s. Today Massolino owns 23 hectares from which they make about 110,000 bottles, still very much artisanal in scale. These 1989 and 1990 Barolos capture a fascinating inflection point in Massolino's history, as they are the first wines proprietor Franco Massolino made upon his graduation from Alba's oenological school. Readers will note that some of these wines are labeled Riserva, while others are not. As was the custom during this era, bottles spent longer in producers- cellars than they typically do today, and over time some qualified for Riserva status. Of these Barolos, the only wines that saw extended time in oak and therefore are true Riservas with respect to aging in barrel are the 1989 and 1990 Vigna Riondas. Where applicable, I have indicated the -Riserva- designation for the estate's other Barolos in parentheses as a reminder that the Riserva and non-Riserva labels for these wines are the exact same wine, simply shipped at different times from the winery. With the exception of the Parafada (see below) Massolino's Barolos were vinified in cement. The malolactic fermentations also took place in cement, although during these years the estate began warming the cellar to induce the malos rather than allowing them to occur naturally as was customary at the time. The wines were then racked into cask where they completed their aging. The 1989s are fresher than the 1990s across the board at this address. Most of my experience with Massolino's older wines has been with the Vigna Rionda (see my vertical on www.erobertparker.com from a few years ago) so I wasn't fully prepared for how successful the other Barolos would be.

I am grateful to Massolino for sending the 1990 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda, because it offers a good window onto the aging capacity of Serralunga d’Alba, in my opinion one of the most interesting and consistent townships in the greater Barolo appellation. As is expected of this territory with thicker soils and slightly warmer temperatures, the Barolo Riserva opens with a thickly concentrated appearance and opulent aromas of exotic spice, bacon fat, dried cherry and chewing tobacco. The density of the wine is thick and textured with bold (but polished) tannins that offer ample support at the back. There’s a touch of acidity as well but not enough to brighten the significant richness of the ripe fruit on display. A long decanting (eight hours or more) helps to bring balance to the wine. Although this wine is aged in botte grande, Franco Massolino started to use barrique in 1990 in his Barolo Parafada for the first time. Drink: 2014-2020.

Among the three 1990s I tasted, I admired the 1990 Barolo Sori Vigna Rionda for its deep, full-bodied, pure richness, spicy, black-cherry and earthy aromatics, and its rich, rustic, authoritatively flavored finish. It should drink well for 15 or more years. This firm owns 11 acres in the highly regarded Rionda vineyard near the village of Serralunga d'Alba. Bruno Giacosa makes one of Italy's greatest Barolos from this vineyard. Massolino has raised the quality of its wines over recent years. I was impressed with the bevy of 1989 and 1990 Barolos I tasted. All were classic, textbook examples of Barolo, ranging from excellent to outstanding quality. Importer: a Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Inc., Hohokus, NJ.