The 2004 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda reveals superb complexity and nuance in a never-ending display of aromas and flavors that saturate the palate. Tobacco, truffles, spices, licorice and dark fruit swirl around in the glass as the wine continues to gain volume and depth with air. The tannins are massive yet beautifully balanced and the stage seems set for the 2004 to develop into one of the finest Vigna Riondas crafted here. Constantly changing in the glass, the wine captures that characteristic Rionda elusiveness that invites a second taste and then a third. In sum, it is a Barolo that will provide endless fascination for many years to come. Incredibly, it tastes almost as youthful as it did from barrel a few years ago! Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. This is a superb set of 2006 Barolos from Massolino. The wines show a combination of power and elegance that in some ways recalls 1996. These 2006s will require time, but the investment will be well worth it. Massolino remains very much in the traditional camp. If anything, an increase in the use of cement (especially for the malos) and a greater reliance on large oak for the Barolo Parafada signal a move towards more classicism in the wines. These exceptionally pure, elegant Barolos merit special consideration. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

Displaying concentrated tar, plum, leather and spice notes, this is more about the spice and woodsy flavors than fruit, with a slightly hard edge to the tannins. Nonetheless, it's full-bodied and long. Best from 2012 through 2022. -BS

The quality and persistency of the fruit is impressive. This Riserva Barolo is extremely generous in terms of its cherry, blackberry, cola and exotic spice aromas. The wine sports fine texture and smooth flavors of plum and leather on the close. ——M.L.(12/1/2010)—— 93