The 1999 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda continues to evolve at a snail’s pace. It offers a beautiful, well articulated nose with classic suggestions of roses, tar, menthol and spices. As it sits in the glass, layers of sweet fruit gradually emerge yet it remains quite reticent. Although it displays notable finesse and balance, it can’t quite match the sheer appeal of the classic 1996 or the supremely elegant 1998. This may ultimately merit a higher score, but it has been fairly unexpressive on the three occasions I have tasted it thus far. It should drink well to at least age 20. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799