The 1994 Merlot is well-made, with ripe, black-cherry and berry fruit, some spice, medium body, and a clean finish with light to moderate tannin. It should drink well for 7-8 years. Winemaker/consultant Nils Venge has been brought in to try and flesh out these wines which have had a tendency to be too tannic and tough-textured. The Keenan wines, made from their vineyards on Spring Mountain, have always been ambitiously made, but largely without the mid-palate and intensity I would have expected from the lofty prices. The group of wines reviewed in this segment looks to be the finest Keenan offerings I have tasted.
How encouraging it is to see this winery improve its quality.
Tel. (707) 963-9177; Fax (707) 963-8209
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