Casanuova delle Cerbaie’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is gorgeous in this vintage. A firm, structured, Brunello, it offers up attractive scents of smoke, grilled herbs, (French oak) and leather. Today the wine comes across as needing bottle age, as the elements aren’t quite woven together as finely as they will be with some time. Still, there is a lovely persistence and depth to this wine that augurs well for the future. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Casanuova delle Cerbaie was purchased in early 2008 by American collector and investor Roy Welland, who is probably best known in wine circles for his New York restaurant Cru, which is also home to one of the world’s most breathtaking winelists. Welland and his team, which includes the talented Robert Bohr, are still in the process of making major improvements to the winery. Given the naturally slow pace of these operations, it will take at least a vintage or two before the results start showing up in the wines. No expense is being spared, and it will be fascinating to see where the wines go from here. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769

Plum jam, with roses and other flowers. A little earthy. Full-bodied, with decadent berry and mushroom flavor. Long, rich and layered. Best from 2010 through 2015. 2,250 cases made, 100 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

Good extraction. Elegantly made, fruit and tannins in balance. A touch of vanilla and enough complexity to improve.

Compared to past vintages, this Brunello underperforms mostly because of the smell of old wood or barrel that hits before any other aromas do. Once you get past it, you will find more pleasing layers of cherry and spice but the mouthfeel is relatively short and easygoing.——M.L.(6/1/2009)—— 85