The 2003 Brunello di Montalcino from Casanuova delle Cerbaie is a rich, weighty wine imbued with complex notes of earthiness, game, smoke, black cherries, leather, herbs and sweet toasted oak. Though expansive and long on the palate, it comes across as quite brooding and backward.The wine is approachable with air, but will likely be even better in another year or two. It will especially appeal to readers who enjoy a powerful, brawny style of Brunello. This is a strong effort from Casanuova delle Cerbaie in a tricky vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017. Importer: Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010

Casanuova delle Cerbaie presents a mature Brunello that shows signs of the hot 2003 vintage. The wine is ripe with aromas of black cherry and blackberry preserves with warm tones of leather and spice.——M.L.(5/1/2009)—— 87