There are 4,000 bottles of the internationally-styled 1999 St.-Joseph La Sensonne, which sees 80% new oak. While it lacks some St.-Joseph typicity, it offers a boatload of cassis fruit, an unctuous texture, plenty of pain grille (toast) notes, and a long, layered finish. Intellectuals may prefer Le Paradis St.-Pierre, but hedonists will go ga-ga over La Sensonne. The stars in this portfolio are the red wine cuvees, which have improved dramatically over the last several years. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048