A bit darker in hue and fruit than the fun, charming 2018, Perret's 2019 Saint Joseph verges on being too serious, with a dusty touch of tannin on the finish. Smoky and spicy up front, with notes of black cherries and cassis, it's full-bodied, rich and velvety, easily capable of aging a few years and drinking well through 2030 or so.

Complex and spicy, Perret's Chavanay-based 2018 Saint Joseph offers up hints of hickory smoke, cracked pepper and ripe cherries. Medium to full-bodied, it's silky and seductive, finishing with lip-smacking deliciousness. Drink it over the next 5 years.

Aged in 15% new oak, the 2017 Saint Joseph boasts more than enough fruit to handle it. Pepper, cassis and blueberry notes mark the nose, while the full-bodied palate is rich, creamy-textured and loaded with supple tannins. The lingering finish folds in hints of peppery spice and a touch of licorice. Impressive.

Off a granite site in Chavanay, Perret's 2016 Saint Joseph is a tarry, black olive-scented wine that comes across as full-bodied and sturdy but also ripe and juicy. Black cherries linger on the mouthwatering, silky finish.