The 2008 Chardonnay Canoe Ridge Estate was partially fermented with native yeasts in 50% new French oak. It was aged in barrel for 10 months sur lie with stirring and went through full malolactic. Medium gold-colored, it gives up an attractive bouquet of buttered popcorn, minerals, poached pear, lemon zest, and baking spices. Smooth textured, mouth-filling, and impeccably balanced, this Chardonnay over-delivers for its modest price. Chateau Ste. Michelle continues to produce large quantities of quality wine at exceptionally fair prices. www.ste-michelle.com

Oaky on the nose, but with the ripe firm fruit to support the barrel flavors, this hits the palate bang on with a powerful load of ripe apple, stone fruits, toast, spice and plain old oak. It’s a style that is becoming standard for Ste. Michelle Chardonnays, a forceful, very ripe, big flavor approach that may benefit from decanting in order to smooth it out.——P.G.(2/1/2011)—— 89