The Chardonnays start with the 2006 Chardonnay Canoe Ridge Estate, made in a fruit-forward style. The wine was aged in 36% new oak and was bottled unfiltered. The nose offers toasty notes, white fruits, pear, and peach. This leads to a round, ripe wine with excellent texture and nicely integrated oak. The finish is lengthy and fruit-filled. This nicely priced wine can be enjoyed now and over the next 3 years. Chateau Ste. Michelle, Washington’s largest winery, continues to demonstrate that being big is not incompatible with high quality. The latest set of releases may be the strongest to date. Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

Though not quite up to the exuberant, ultra-ripe flavors of the 2005 Canoe Ridge Estate Chardonnay, the sleeker, more acidic 2006 is a fine effort. Firm and textural, with excellent concentration, its fruit flavors are lean and appley, with a hint of green banana. Balanced and tight, this is one Chardonnay that should probably be cellared for a few more years.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 88