The 2005 Chardonnay “Canoe Ridge Estate” appears oak-dominated both aromatically and on the palate. The aromas feature smoke and toast followed by a wine with melon and apple flavors competing with the wood. Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

A smashing success, this exceptional value is loaded with the typical fruit flavors of cut green apple, pineapple and melon. The fruit is set in a creamy frame and finished with beautifully restrained oak accents that support it without burying it.——P.G.(8/1/2007)—— 91

Christophe Paubert brings a distinctly French palate to these grapes, and he knows how to bring out the elegance that is too often buried in buttery oak. Here the fruit stands out, crisply defined, clean and extremely fresh. Only 20% was put through malo, and fully 85% was fermented in stainless steel. This is a fine effort, and a terrific value.——P.G.(11/1/2007)—— 88