An excellent value, the 2004 Chardonnay Canoe Ridge Estate (9,000 cases) is fashioned from 12 year old vines. Its creamy, spicy aromas lead to a plush, sultry character. Medium to full-bodied, it blossoms on the attack to reveal loads of dense white fruit flavors in a sumptuously hedonistic format. Bottled unfiltered, this sexy fruit-bomb may not satisfy intellectual urges but it certainly appeases the corporal ones! Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (800) 267-6793; www.ste-michelle.com

The vineyard’s characteristic green apple and light melon flavors are here, though lighter and more ephemeral than in the over-the-top 2003. Nice hints of cinnamon are scattered throughout, and the finishing oak flavors carry an impression of slightly burned creme brulee.——P.G.(8/1/2006)—— 89