The fruit for the 2016 Barbera d'Alba Superiore Pairolero comes from the top-lying parts of Basarin, most of it from 40-, 50- and 60-year-old vines. It pours to a ruby color, having endured 25 days of maceration, just a few days of submersed cap and then about two years in oak. It spends those years on the less, and the Sottimano family counts on bottling it for as long as they can, to put the brakes on the wine, so to speak. This technique was learned in Burdgundy. What comes out of this process is a Barbera d'Alba that shows the power of the vintage yet is extremely well made, fresh and elegant. Some 12,000 bottles were produced. Serve it with a lamb steak.