The 2006 Barbera d’Alba Pairolero is a dense, full-bodied wine endowed with masses of ripe dark fruit. Still quite primary, the wine reveals only shades of the chocolate, spice and mineral nuances that are buried below the fruit. Today the 2006 doesn’t appear to have quite the delineation of the very finest vintages here, yet this remains a delicious, mouth-filling Barbera. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Sottimano is one of the leading producers in Barbaresco. Readers should check out Issue 178 for value-priced wines from this estate, which has been on a roll for a few years. Simply put, there are few, if any, growers in Barbaresco that offer this level of consistency throughout their entire range. Sottimano’s 2005 Barbarescos have always shown superb balance. They are on average slightly fresher than the 2004s, with a touch less concentration, something that is very much in keeping with the qualities of the vintage.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411