The 2009 Barbera d’Alba Pairolero is pure class and elegance. Layers of silky, perfumed fruit caress the palate from start to finish. The 2009 is another classy, polished wine from the Sottimano family. The rich, opulent style of years past has been replaced with a pure, stunning expression of fruit. This is a fabulous showing. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.
I can’t say enough good things about the Sottimano family and the work they have done over the years to firmly establish themselves among Barbaresco’s top growers. This is one of the few places in Piedmont where every wine is consistently delicious. The only question is how delicious. In recent years, Andrea Sottimano has worked to give his Barbareschi extended time on the lees in a cold cellar, which also slows down the malos. This distinctly Burgundian approach stands in stark contrast to the way most French oak-aged wines are made in Piedmont, where malos typically follow right after the alcoholic fermentations. I tasted the 2010s just after they were bottled. Readers should take these notes as brief impressions on wines that will continue to come to life with further time in bottle.
Various American importers, including Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; tel. (415) 492-9411; Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343
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