One of the many highlights among these new releases, the 2010 Barbera d’Alba Pairolero is all about tension and inward minerality. Firm yet well-integrated tannins and the freshness of a very late harvest mark this vivid, utterly breathtaking Barbera. Readers will want to cellar the 2010 for a few years, and drink the 2009 earlier. A pure, crystalline finish rounds things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.
I can’t say enough good things about the Sottimano family and the work they have done over the years to firmly establish themselves among Barbaresco’s top growers. This is one of the few places in Piedmont where every wine is consistently delicious. The only question is how delicious. In recent years, Andrea Sottimano has worked to give his Barbareschi extended time on the lees in a cold cellar, which also slows down the malos. This distinctly Burgundian approach stands in stark contrast to the way most French oak-aged wines are made in Piedmont, where malos typically follow right after the alcoholic fermentations. I tasted the 2010s just after they were bottled. Readers should take these notes as brief impressions on wines that will continue to come to life with further time in bottle.
Various American importers, including Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; tel. (415) 492-9411; Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343
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