As it approaches its 19th birthday, the 1999 Meursault Les Narvaux is just reaching early maturity. It's a striking wine, lively green-gold in hue and wafts from the glass with enticing aromas of crisp apricot, lemon confit, pastry cream, oatmeal and iodine. On the palate, it's full-bodied and textural but chalky, with incredible depth and concentration, underpinned by tangy acids and concluding with a precisely delineated finish.

The mineral and stone-scented 1999 Meursault Narvaux is light-to-medium-bodied, concentrated, and refined. It has outstanding depth to its stone, pear, and mineral flavored personality, as well as an extremely long, pure finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2008. Importer: Martine's Wines, San Raphael, CA; tel. (415) 485-1800.