The 2008 Barbaresco Rocche Meruzzano is a big, strapping wine. A firm wall of tannin supports an expressive core of dark cherries, menthol, licorice and tar. This is an especially dark, brooding Barbaresco that will require a measure of patience for the tannins to start melting away. There appears to be more than enough sweetness and depth in the fruit to stand up to the structural components. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.
Once again Orlando Abrigo’s Barbareschi are terrific. As for the entry level wines, well, that is another matter entirely. Let’s just say there is an abyss in quality from the simpler wines to those from the more prestigious appellations, and that just doesn’t happen at a top estate.
Importer: Vera Food & Wine, Springfield, NJ; tel. (973) 912-0274
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