This 1999 Chianti reveals the vintage's tell-tale sweetness, high glycerin, and ripe strawberry/cherry fruit. Medium-bodied, with deep flavors and no hard edges, it will drink well for 2-4 years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

An attractive retro label doesn’t set you up for the very ripe fruit and almost Californian profile of this new-wave style Chianti. The black-cherry, vanilla and coffee flavors, soft tannins and plenty of toasty oak comprise a satisfying package. It’s a stylish, appealing wine that’s drinking well right now.——W.E.(4/1/2001)—— 87