Milled grain, toasted nuts, peach kernel, lemon zest, and an overall aura of smokiness mark the nose and palate of Drouhin’s 2007 Meursault, which harmoniously yet invigoratingly combines citric brightness and refreshment with subtle creaminess of texture and low-toned, subtly roasted notes. As with the corresponding Puligny, there is a lovely floral note, here reminiscent of honeysuckle. Refined and understated, this skillful rendition will serve as an excellent introduction to its appellation over the next several years. Veronique Drouhin-Boss expressed enormous – and, in my view, justifiable – satisfaction with the 2007 crop of Drouhin whites, admitting that their sense of concentration might strike some observers as paradoxical given the vintage’s relatively high yields. Regular batonnage seems to have been a successful policy here, at least as judged by flattering textures and overt richness (almost atypically so for the vintage) short-term. For an account of Drouhin’s Chablis from 2007, consult the separate report on that region in this issue. Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818 0770

Attractive nose with good fruit ripeness. Balanced, with developed, rich, honeysuckle notes. Lacks a little concentration.

An opulent style, very Meursault, the weight coming from the wood and the packed white fruit flavors. The wine is smooth, generous, a big ripe mouthful of fruit. The aftertaste shows some wood. ——R.V.(7/1/2010)—— 90