Although the 1995 remains tight and closed, it reveals classic Bonneau characteristics of roasted herbs, beef blood, cherries, cassis, licorice, and earth. These wines often taste as if someone took one of the old Grenache vines, threw it in a Cuisinart, liquified it, added a bit of brandy, and then bottled it. This is classic Chateauneuf du Pape, the likes of which are increasingly difficult to find. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Although the 1995 remains tight and closed, it reveals classic Bonneau characteristics of roasted herbs, beef blood, cherries, cassis, licorice, and earth. These wines often taste as if someone took one of the old Grenache vines, threw it in a Cuisinart, liquified it, added a bit of brandy, and then bottled it. This is classic Chateauneuf du Pape, the likes of which are increasingly difficult to find. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

In his modest manner, Bonneau claims 1995 to be a "bon millesime." Usually when Henri Bonneau says "bon" it means great. His lighter cuvees of 1995 are stunning - sweet, rich, and ripe, with a concentrated essence of beef blood, herbes de Provence, black-cherry, and cassis fruit. The more concentrated cuvees appear to merit a Reserve des Celestins classification as they are black/purple-colored, extremely broad, full-bodied, with huge alcohol, and unctuous textures. These wines (cuvees one, two, three and four) should turn out to be as good as his 1988s, but Bonneau claims they are not the equal of his three most recent great vintages, 1978, 1989, and 1990.This wine was tasted between June 1 and June 16, 1996.The legendary and irrepressible Henri Bonneau was in fine form when I saw him in June. Tasting in his dark, hodge-podge of tiny rooms was once again a memorable experience. Bonneau is not yet sure which designations he will use on his 1994s or 1995s, but I suspect there will be both a Marie Beurrier and Reserve des Celestins. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173