Beginning to throw off its cloak of tannin and start its evolution is the 1988. A dark plum/ruby color is accompanied by a sweet perfume of mushrooms, tree bark, black cherries macerated in brandy, and the tell-tale beef blood, lavender, cedar, and tobacco aromas. This full-bodied, powerful yet structured Reserve des Celestins does not reveal the pure breadth and depth of flavor found in the 1989 and 1990, but comes across as a mature example of the 1995. Anticipated maturity: now-2025. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Beginning to throw off its cloak of tannin and start its evolution is the 1988. A dark plum/ruby color is accompanied by a sweet perfume of mushrooms, tree bark, black cherries macerated in brandy, and the tell-tale beef blood, lavender, cedar, and tobacco aromas. This full-bodied, powerful yet structured Reserve des Celestins does not reveal the pure breadth and depth of flavor found in the 1989 and 1990, but comes across as a mature example of the 1995. Anticipated maturity: now-2025. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173