Inky colored and still a monster of a wine that has a wealth of fruit and texture, the 2007 Gigondas Prestige des Hautes Garrigues is locked and loaded with notions of smoked meats, ripe currants, black raspberries, singed garrigue and chocolate. Still youthful and vibrant, with its oak elevage absolutely covered by a wealth of fruit, it has awesome purity, ripe tannin and a finish that just won't quit. Count yourself lucky if you have any of this in the cellar.

An absolutely exquisite, profound effort is the densely purple-colored 2007 Gigondas Les Hautes Garrigues Cuvee Prestige. The incredible aromatic expression of lead pencil shavings intermixed with blueberry and blackberry as well as ripe raspberries, crushed rock, and floral undertones is to die for. In the mouth, the wine is exceptionally full-bodied, fresh and vibrant, yet possesses awesome concentration, a multi-layered mouthfeel, and a finish that goes on for 45+ seconds. This is an incredible effort from Yves Gras that should drink well for at least 20 years. (I say that because I still have some of the 1989 Gigondas Les Hautes Garrigues in my personal cellar, and it is in fabulous shape.) Yves Gras is one of the great personalities of the southern Rhone, and I always enjoy my visits with him. Aside from his passion and singular personality is his exceptional talent for winemaking and vineyard management. First, as I have indicated in the past, he has a small negociant operation. There are very few efforts in 2008 under the “Santa Duc Selection” moniker because of the challenging vintage; he did show me three wines. The estate wines in 2008 include only one cuvee of Gigondas, as there will be no Les Hautes Garrigues produced, or his new baby, the Grand Grenache 66. The three cuvees of 2007 are certainly the finest wines I have tasted from Yves Gras since I started visiting him in the mid-1980s.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083