One of the top successes of the vintage is the 2004 Gigondas Les Hautes Garrigues Cuvee Prestige. Full-bodied with phenomenal intensity, an inky bluish purple color, and hints of asphalt, black truffle, blueberry, black cherry, and flowers with a hint of subtle oak, the wine has superb fruit, full body, and a beautiful, silky finish. It should drink well for 10-15 years. This is arguably the best estate of Gigondas, although the exuberant proprietor Yves Gras has plenty of competition from his nearby neighbor Louis Barruol at St.-Cosme. A few years ago readers may remember I mentioned that Gras started a negociant business which is obviously successful given his knowledge of local growers and top vineyards. He has also opened a wine-tasting bar and bistro in the old Roman village of Vaison La Romaine with one of the local chefs, Raoul Reichrath. It is called Bistro du ‘O.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083