This superb wine features elements of cola, smoke and earth, but rising above all is the wonderfully pure raspberry fruit. Delicate in texture, with a long, silky finish, this is almost Burgundian in style, not a huge blockbuster, but a model of elegance and finesse. Drinks well now, but as a recent taste of the ’96 showed, these are wines that can age 10 years past the vintage with ease.——J.C.(11/1/2007)—— 94