A very seductive, fragrant nose of Asian spice, black fruits, graphite, earth, and underbrush jump from the glass of this very full-bodied, sweet, expansive, rich wine that has terrific purity and no hard edges. It is a seamless, seemingly fully mature classic that can be drunk now and over the next 12-15 years. Thanks to the persistent efforts of the American importer Dan Philips of the Grateful Palate (Oxnard, CA; tel. 888-472-5283), small quantities of Rockford wines for the first time are now available in the United States.