A sensational effort that is just beginning to approach its plateau of maturity, this remarkably youthful, opaque purple-colored wine still shows some of the primary blackberry characteristics intermixed with espresso, new saddle leather, Asian spice, pepper, and licorice. It is very full-bodied, velvety-textured, and massively concentrated, but neither heavy nor alcoholic. Its tannin and acidity are impeccably absorbed as well as integrated. Drink it over the next 15 years. This is one of the great classics of Rockford. Thanks to the persistent efforts of the American importer Dan Philips of the Grateful Palate (Oxnard, CA; tel. 888-472-5283), small quantities of Rockford wines for the first time are now available in the United States.