Not considered a top-notch vintage but still very impressive, this is a youthful, unevolved wine that seemed every bit as backward as the 1996 and even more youthful than the 1997. Deep purple with sweet creme de cassis notes intermixed with underbrush, creosote, and pepper, very rich, vigorous, full-bodied, and moderately tannic, this is still a baby. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2020. Thanks to the persistent efforts of the American importer Dan Philips of the Grateful Palate (Oxnard, CA; tel. 888-472-5283), small quantities of Rockford wines for the first time are now available in the United States.