The 2008 Merlot (100%) spent 15 months in a mix of new and used French oak. It exhibits an aromatic array of smoke, spice box, violets, black cherry, and black raspberry. Elegant on the palate with excellent volume, concentrated, spicy flavors, and a hint of minerality, it has enough structure to evolve for 2-3 years and will offer a drinking window extending from 2013 to 2022 if not longer. Tel. (509) 525-1428; www.leonetticellar.com

This is 100% varietal, from the Loess, Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge, and Mill Creek Upland vineyards. A deep, intense take on Merlot, it’s so dark and concentrated that it dances on the )edge of bitterness, but in a style reminiscent of the finest Italian Merlots, that use that flavor to define and elucidate a dark and potent wine. In the mouth it fills out with luscious cherry and plum and blackberry fruit, baking chocolate, coconut and nougat. Yet it remains sleek and stylish, with a strong licorice note.——P.G.(8/1/2010)—— 96