Though less powerful than the 2003, the aromatically floral 2004 Merlot holds its own in a qualitative comparison. Its nose of roses, wild berries, and cherries leads to a medium to full-bodied, pure core of spicy black cherries. An elegant yet full-flavored wine, it is a candidate for drinking over the next 8-9 years. Tel. (509) 525-1428; www.leonetticellar.com

There was no Pepper Bridge or Seven Hills Merlot in the mix in 2004, but this as good as any other Leonetti Merlot, which is to say as good as it gets, aided by the inclusion of Cold Creek vineyard fruit. Soft, lush and beautifully aromatic; it’s just lightly dusted with chocolate and hints of spicy herb. ——P.G.(10/1/2006)—— 92