The medium to dark ruby-colored 1998 Merlot possesses an immensely appealing spice and dark fruit-scented perfume. While it would be perceived as extroverted, even boisterous from another producer, it is reserved for Leonetti. Medium to full-bodied and hugely ripe, it is crammed with Asian spices, chocolate, blackberry juice, and a cascade of cherries. This expansive, rich, lively Merlot is unquestionably great stuff! There are no hard edges in its sultry character or exceptionally long, fruit-filled finish. Enjoy it over the next 7-9 years. Tel. (509) 525-1428.

If this isn’t the best $50 Merlot in the world, I don’t know what is. Dark, thick and jammy, with dense layers of fruit, spice and oak. Scents of sandalwood, coffee, mint, pepper and more, much more. In the mouth it offers a seamless, achingly rich mix of fruits, woods and spices. Big, rich, long and deep, it’s nonetheless best enjoyed right now, not cellared. ——P.G.(11/15/2000)—— 94