Late harvested fruit and 30 months of oak aging give Claudio Alario’s 2004 Barolo Riva an intense, weighty personality. Perfumed and open on the nose, this Barolo offers plenty of sweet dark fruit, mocha and chocolate in a generous, supple style. While this bottling doesn’t seem built for the long haul, it should offer much pleasure over the next decade or so. Alario’s Barolo Riva is made from holdings in Verduno. It is aged in a combination of 225 and 15 hectoliter barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411