The 2000 Barolo Riva, from a vineyard in Verduno, is less successful than the Dolcetto, rather intense on the nose but rather overbearing in its blast of vanilla, cedar, and other oak notes which mask the fruit, vigorous and sustained on the palate but rather dry in texture and hard on the finish. I have no general theories about the use of barrels for aging Nebbiolo – in the last analysis it’s the individual wine that tells you whether the choice was justified or not. But an abundant use of new barrels in vintages such as 2000 would seem to be questionable.
A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411
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