Named after the first French pope, this brilliant 75-acre estate located just south of the beltway surrounding the city of Bordeaux is planted with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Produced from yields of 25 hectoliters per hectare, the 2003 is evolved (part of its extraordinary appeal). Complex characteristics of smoke, meat, lead pencil shavings, sweet plums, black cherry liqueur, blackberries, and a hint of espresso are followed by an opulent, full-bodied wine with moderately high but silky tannin, a layered texture, and copious glycerin, which gives it a big, savory, expansive mouthfeel. The finish is long and persistent. This example appears to be on a fast evolutionary track, but it will probably never close down, and should last 15-20 years ... at the minimum.
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