Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2009 Grandes Murailles opens with baking spices, new leather and tobacco notes over a dried mulberries and stewed red plums core with a waft of bay leaves. The palate is medium to full-bodied and plush with loads of savory layers and a peppery kick to the finish.

Blackberries and blueberries, with mineral and lemon rind. Full body, chewy and tannic. Structured and slightly austere, but fresh and fine. Try in 2015.

Juicy, with a compact core of damson plum, linzer torte and red currant that should unwind nicely with mid-term cellaring. Shows good spice and singed cedar notes in reserve. Drink now through 2016. 600 cases made. -JM

Black cherry, sweet vanilla, strawberry, blackcurrant and vibrant oak aromas. Ripe, expressive fruit with a pleasing mouthfeel and texture. It is tannic but mouthwatering. Fresh, harmonious, classy, complex, long and generous. Drink: 2013-2021. Alc: 14%. (17 points)