A sleeper of the vintage, as well as the finest Grandes Murailles I have ever tasted, this deep, saturated ruby/purple-colored 1998 offers up blueberry, plum, raspberry, and black cherry fruit intertwined with toast and minerals. Supple, complex, and medium to full-bodied, with a boat load of fruit and richness, there are no hard edges in this seamless, classic St.-Emilion. Anticipated maturity: now-2016.

Extremely attractive aromas of smoke, berry, roasted coffee and tobacco. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long finish. Still holding back. Best after 2008. 580 cases made. -JS