The 2009 Barbaresco Ronchi is a step up from the Ovello. Dark cherries, flowers, spices and crushed rocks meld together nicely. The Ronchi has a level of textural depth and power allied to a sense of vibrancy that is hugely appealing. At the same time, the essentially mid-weight style of the year at the estate is evident throughout. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. I was shocked and saddened to learn that proprietor Angelo Rocca recently passed away in a crash involving his own light airplane. I visited with Rocca in late August, just as the Moscato was coming in. Rocca embodied the spirit of the self-made Piemontese grower who took a sleepy family-run winery and turned it into a world-class estate in just one generation. He will be deeply missed. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887