Maison Bertrand Ambroise Cotes de Nuits Villages, Burgundy, France

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In 2008, Ambroise essayed only a single Bourgogne rouge bottling – excluding his older vines – which I found slightly stewed and uninspiring, but his 2008 Cotes de Nuits-Villages – while featuring low-toned and lightly cooked blackberry and beetroot – also offers attractively toasted nut accents; a sufficient sense of primary juiciness to assuage its slight finishing chew of tannins; and a salinity to stimulate salivation. I would plan on serving it over the next 4-5 years. Bertrand Ambroise picked late and captured impressively ripe material in 2008, though the strident side of the vintage is sometimes still in evidence in the resultant wines, and not always comfortably married with the ambitious extraction and high quotient of new wood that characterize his regimen. (For further details concerning Ambroise’s methods, consult my report in issue 171.) I did not, regrettably, have chance to taste any of Ambroise’s 2007s, which he characterizes, predictably, as having been much more open early-on than his 2008s and as for the most part being ideal to drink young.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083