In the 1990s, this estate turned out highly col-ored, very tannic red wines that appealed to lovers of the modern style but seemed exces-sive to enthusiasts of classic Burgundy, The latest offerings show a welcome return to more traditional winemaking, with no loss of pristine technique. The whites age superbly in the bot-tle, whether the Corton-Charlemagne or the outstanding Saint-Rornain-cthe most com-plete Saint-Romain we have ever tasted,