Maison Bertrand Ambroise Cotes de Nuits Villages, Burgundy, France

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If you like unfined, unfiltered, lusty, full-bodied, muscular Pinot Noirs from the Cote de Nuits, Ambroise is your man. I discovered this producer while researching my Burgundy book and I am delighted to see how successful he has become, not only in America, but also in the Burgundy circles of Europe. Ambroise makes some of the most extracted, deeply colored wines of Burgundy, but they are not meant to be sipped while sitting pool side. These are super-endowed, tannic "vins de garde" that will repay cellaring. Year in and year out Ambroise makes one of the best Cote de Nuits Villages wines and the 1991 possesses a dense ruby/purple color, a spicy, vanillin, and berry-scented nose, big, medium to full-bodied, tannic flavors, and a long finish. This is a Cote de Nuits to buy and cellar for the next 10-12 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC.