Maison Bertrand Ambroise Cotes de Nuits Villages, Burgundy, France

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The ruby-colored 1999 Cotes de Nuits-Villages has a spicy, dark fruit-laden nose with a touch of something that I can only describe as roast chicken. Medium-bodied, juicy, and ripe, this wine has excellent depth to its red and black fruit-dominated character. It is structured and has loads of tannin, but appears to have the requisite fruit to cope with it. Drink it over the next 5 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.