Domaine Pierre Morey Perrieres, Meursault 1er Cru, France

皮埃爾-莫雷佩里耶（默爾索一級園）白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：7624

The 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières opens in the glass with notes of citrus oil, pear, oatmeal and struck flint, framed by a deft touch of smoky reduction. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and intense, with racy acids and a searingly chalky finish. Anne Morey tells me that her father farmed this 0.55-hectare parcel before acquiring it at the end of the 1980s, and the composition of the soils suggests that this was the location where rejected stones from the quarry that lends the climat its name were discarded.

The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is built to age, unwinding slowly in the glass with textbook scents of lemon oil, crisp green apple, white flowers and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's tensile, electric but youthfully introverted, with immense promise for the future but little in the way of immediate gratification. This is a cuvée that needs a minimum of a decade to show its cards in most vintages, and that's certainly the case for the 2017.

The 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières has a very taut and focused bouquet, fine mineralité here with a cheeky touch of pralines and it just seems to blossom in the glass. The palate is crisp and taut with a fine line of acidity, the young vines lending precocity towards the austerity lent by the older vines. This is a well-crafted, what you might call "honest" Les Derrières that should age with style and panache.

The 2013 Meursault Perrieres, which was taken from a new barrel upon my visit, has an attractive orange-blossom bouquet that needs a little more time to express the mineralite one seeks in this vineyard. But it's well defined and already suggests that it will have plenty of vigor. The palate exhibits good depth and neatly carries the oak, although there will be less once the final assemblage has been done (as an aside, Anne told me that the depleted quantity of fruit predicated a higher percentage of new wood, therefore they opted to use the Allier cooper instead of Vosges since she finds it makes less of an imprint upon the blend.) This Perrieres has fine concentration with a sense of roundness translated on the peppery, delicately spiced finish. This may turn out to be quite a feisty Perrieres once bottled.