At age ten, the 2008 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is strikingly good, unfurling in the glass with notes of lemon oil, mandarin, oyster shell, smoke and a subtle framing of nicely integrated wood. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, intensely concentrated and searingly incisive, with incredible energy, tension and depth at the core, culminating in a precise, chalky finish. This is a brilliant wine and gets my nod as Pierre Morey's best Perrières of the decade.

(white) Tight, channelled and focused. Precisely edged palate with excellent focus and minerality.