I tasted from two barrels seemingly destined for the 2018 Saint Joseph les Pierres. One was full-bodied, plush and long, with notes of mocha and black cherries, while the other showed explosive red fruit, firm tannins and greater freshness. They should complement each other beautifully.

From a couple of south-facing slopes, the 2017 Saint Joseph les Pierres was aged in a high proportion of new oak, but it comes across as a classy hint of pencil shavings and crushed stone. Those cedary and spicy notes accent black cherries and plums in this medium to full-bodied wine. Plush and velvety in feel, with a solid core of fruit, this looks to have a decade of longevity.

Aged in 100% new oak for 18 months, Gaillard's 2016 Saint Joseph les Pierres comes from three granite-based parcels, in Chavanay, Malleval and Limony. It's medium-bodied and smooth, with notes of dark fruit (black cherries, plums) spiced up by hints of clove and cinnamon. Smooth and supple, it's approachable now and not so concentrated that it needs to age. Drink it over the next 6-7 years.

The 2015 Saint Joseph les Pierres comes from the granite soils of the C?te-Belley lieu-dit (northern part of the appellation) and is still aging in new French oak barrels. It has beautiful concentration and mid-palate depth, as well as lots of mulled blackberry and darker fruits, licorice and hints of chocolate. It has terrific purity of fruit, and its oak component is pushed all the way into the background.

Loaded with notions of pepper, wild herbs, cedary spice and raspberry-like fruit, the 2014 Saint Joseph les Pierres from Gaillard is medium-bodied, fresh and classic in style, with juicy acidity, moderate depth and richness, as well as a good finish. It should keep for 5-6 years.