The 2012 Ladoix 1er Cru Les Grechons has an uncomplicated bouquet with touches of orange rind and even a hint of kerosene that opens with aeration. The palate has a touch of spice on the entry with a decent thread of acidity, finishing confidently albeit without quite the breeding of a top premier cru. Drink now-2017. Following on from his 2011s, I tasted Bertrand’s bottled 2012s that were presented in London. I preferred these to last year’s crop, the wines showing a little more panache and delineation, although I would still prefer to see Bertrand achieve greater terroir expression. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083 and through Charles Taylor Wines (UK)

The 2011 Ladoix 1er Cru Les Grechons offers a light grassy bouquet with touches of dried pineapple and spice, that to be honest, does not really excite. Fortunately, the palate is better with a pleasant fatness on the entry. This is full of tropical fruit augmented by a touch of lemon zest with a satisfying prickle on the finish, although it needs more tension to merit a higher score. Drink now-2016. I have regularly tasted the wines from Maison Ambroise since I commenced the raft of Burgundy tastings in London. Bertrand Ambroise took over the running of the ancient Primeaux-Prissey- based negociant in 1987, and whenever I have met him, he seems to be a conscientious vigneron that cares deeply for his wine. The tenets here are all admirable: organic viticulture, handpicked fruit, rigorous sorting, minimal use of sulphur and so forth. But – and it is a big “but” – I have consistently found the wines to be smothered in superfluous new oak and at a time when many growers are generally reconsidering, and in many cases retreating from, its usage. Tasting through their 2011s seemed to say more about the cooperage than the individuality of the terroirs. Here, 100% new oak is used for both the premier and grand cru wines and it rendered them uniform and even a little passe. There is clearly high quality fruit here and there is also a keen focus upon creating the best wines possible. However, I have always felt that if Ambroise could dial down that new oak (not eradicate it completely) to a level commensurate with the fruit concentration in each cuvee, they would reveal far more personality. Still, there are some good wines to be found such as the Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains and a respectable Corton-Rognets. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083