Displaying white flower and anise scents, the Ladoix Les Grechons, aged in 50% new oak, is an intense, medium-bodied, and lively wine packed with candied citrus fruits, pears and minerals. Anticipated maturity: now-2002. The ever-smiling Bertrand Ambroise is one of the rare winemakers who produces high quality white and red Burgundies. Gregarious, intelligent, and always armed with a new joke or witty remark, Ambroise gets serious when talk turns to winemaking. In 1996 he crafted his whites 100% in barrel, with twice weekly batonnages until the malo-lactic fermentations began. He stopped stirring the lees at this stage "because the lees did not taste good." Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.