This is quite a fine Zinfandel that shows the benefits of a relatively cool vintage in Paso Robles. The fruit is entirely ripe, but without the Porty sweetness that can mar Paso reds in a hot year. Although there’s a caramelly edge, it’s not over the top, lending a soupcon of honey to the blackberry and spice flavors.——S.H.(12/1/2007)—— 88