An outstanding effort, the 2004 Especial (a blend from five separate vineyards) exhibits aromas of black currants, sweet cherries, and other blue/black fruits. Full-bodied with 15.5% alcohol in addition to adequate acidity, loads of spice, and an exuberant, extroverted personality, it will drink well for 3-4 years. Tel. (805) 237-1577

I’ve found variability in Especial, despite its high price. It shows an artisinal, vintage-driven nature that can be beguiling or rough. The ’04 is a bit of both. It’s not a smooth, seductive Zin. The tannins are too feral. But it is interesting, with complex blackberry, blueberry, cherry and Asian spice flavors. Try aging, but not too long. You don’t want to lose that fresh fruit.——S.H.(12/1/2006)—— 88