The 2017 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru has also turned out brilliantly, mingling notes of peach, pear and honeycomb with nuances of beeswax, warm bread and orange oil. Full-bodied, multidimensional and textural, it's a powerful, muscular wine that's concentrated and satiny without being unctuous, balanced by racy acids. Long and penetrating, this is worth a special effort to seek out.