The 2006 The Custodian Grenache is dark ruby-colored with a perfumed nose of spice box and cherry. Sweetly fruited and juicy, it closely resembles a high level Cotes du Rhone. On the palate, spice and mineral notes combine with an amalgam of red fruits to provide a satisfying flavor profile leading to a lengthy, pure finish. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. The d’Arenberg portfolio is loaded with values. The winery works with over 140 growers to fashion their superb blends.Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; Tel. (707)258-9552; www.darenberg.com.au

The 2006 Custodian blends slightly disparate pieces into a harmonious whole. Tart berries accent stewed fruit on the nose, while herbal elements highlight superripe fruit and chocolate on the palate. It’s full and round in the mouth, ending a bit soft.——J.C.(8/1/2009)—— 87